lunes, 31 de marzo de 2008

Welcome home, Mrs. Hooker


Today I didn't have lunch at home... I went picnic by the river instead. And so did almost everyone here in Salamanca. The reason for such a sunday-ish activity like this happening on monday is clear and unique: to celebrate the return of the prostitutes. Ain't it a reason for joy?

It was in the XVIth century when the King Philip II -the one who ruled the Spanish empire at its height as a catholic enterprise- ordered the prostitutes should leave Salamanca during the holy lent so it'd be easier for the masculine population to avoid the sin of lust. It might not be widely known but Salamanca, due to the presence of its seven centuries old university, has always had a significant and lively 'red light district' fueled by an important population of students, soldiers and -of course- priests. These 'providers of affection' were kept on the other shore of the river Tormes until the period of lent was over. Then, on the first monday after easter, the prostitutes were allowed to cross back the river and the students, their best clients, accompained them on their trip on decorated boats, cheering at them and celebrating the day at the river banks with drinks and hornazo -a typical pie filled with boiled egg, ham and sausage.

Nowadays, the historic district where the prostitutes were settled has changed into a state-of-the-art, centrally situated area with recently restored apartments available for high rents and its former inhabitants and workers are not a part of the student life anymore... The times have changed so nobody's exiled to the other side of the river. But every year, on the first monday after easter, everyone in Salamanca buys a hornazo and walks down to the river banks to celebrate the Lunes de Aguas (monday of waters, literally translated) festivity. So, wanna join me for the picnic? Fancy a piece of hornazo? Our good friends the working girls are about to return! Hurrah!

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